2017年3月31日星期五

The belt in today's unique status in life

Belt has become a kind of fashion, fashion belt, scrutinize international greatly small fashion show, the designer has been inseparable from the belt. Especially men, almost every men want to beam a belt on the pants. Role has been extended to the practicability of the belt outside the fashion collocation, even the meaning of the ornament is also growing. Some international brands under the belt also, zegna, montblanc, dunhill, EASY and other brands, from season to season launch new meaningful. Or use the new material, or the application of new ideas.
DSC_9251.JPG


Belt texture, style, hook clasp determines its value, currently on the market the most common belt of pig leather, cowhide, sheepskin, crocodile and recreational canvas belt, etc. In different kinds of belt, the processing and tanning process are different, therefore present a variety of styles. The crocodile is high grade, has a higher value.



DSC_9253.JPG

Pig skin and skin after a thin layered, become more soft; While the leather has a body bone stronger feeling. Can choose according to his be fond of choose and buy when the texture. Another belt embossing and mechanism of the effect can make a belt more attractive and characteristic. The fastener quality is very important, a high quality belt, often winning is hook clasp, build give a kind of low-key, high-profile feeling.
DSC_9333.JPG
Modern city life, men show the waist belt is men's social status, a method of pressure. Some scholars believe that modern man's belt, belt is the ancient man carries on the bow, sword, abacus etc. Tools, they will put their important things on the waist, is to display a sign of personal social status.

DSC_9327.JPG
And modern man's belt also plays a similar role, someone on a belt tied on mobile phones, lighters, key package, and even works on the tool and so on, from what they are about to see their social status, work status, and the pressure of survival. Belt at a very low position, but its importance is still not despise. Be elegant and personable men often like to do some decoration on the waist.

Belt production in ancient China

Production of hook of raw materials, mostly USES metal, such as gold, silver, copper, iron, also useful made of jade, stone, bone, wood, but a few. Hook shape, because of the different age and regional differences, there are also many obvious changes. Some into a bar, some do their form, and make some animals, some do birds form, some make it humanoid, some make the dragon, and jean, spoon and pipa, etc., not the best. The making craft of hook also has distinguishing feature very much, either in time, some with embedded, some with ornamental, some with fault, and so on. As "huai south son" say Lin Xun is written: "a bunch of sit, depending on the hook."
QQ截图20170330225749
Take JU than hook Over the past few years have seen with JU physical, is after the warring states period So-called belt JU ” Ž, refers to an endless belt buckle, its shape or square or round, elegant with pins, when will the belt into the buckle and then insert the pins Because of its ligation than hook is firm, so popular. After The Three Kingdoms, leather belt with a JU gradually increased, while those with a hook became more and more less, finally completely replaced Later generations of popular hook, belt, DieXie belt and gold belt, jade belt, etc., all with JUŽ, without hook, hook mission becomes extinct.
QQ截图20170330225605
Take JU though is a kind of device, the leather belt but sometimes also can be used for The ribbon is different from silk sash, it is woven of silk a wide belt. In common with Gun belt, woven belt, such as name, is refers to the belt. As the above vision, said: "father welcome form notions of a woven ChengBao monk shen rong bed act the role ofing winding belt." The concept of east han ji: "zheng (deng) as the huns, and so on give a king kong xianbei Gun belt." In this first Gun belt and woven belt, just with a metal belt JU "Were" and take "myobu dress in mind:" the princess sealed with ribbon, jun more Gun brought by mining group, each as the ribbon color. Gold to ward off bad luck, the first to take ð « ” Ž, decorated with white Thus, this act the role ofing has brought ð « ” Ž belt, not only can be used for man, at the same time can also be used by women.
QQ截图20170330225628

The role of the belt in ancient China

 About the lacing wire belt, in ancient times there are clear rules. Such as "rites · deep clothes" reporter: "belt, under no respite of time, not on anaerobic, when no bone." Kong Yingda comments said: "when boneless, take if when bone priorities in hard, so when the boneless. 
QQ截图20170329175438
  This deep take belt is stopped in the offering. The offerings of the belt, is nearly". Reason "jade algae" cloud: "three points down, gentlemen and the 2. Is take the following four feet five inches also." Visible tie beam part of the belt, is decided according to the different shape of all kinds of clothing. We are in the period from the warring states period to the western han dynasty figurines as you can see, all women wear around the inner deep clothes, belt is on the tip of the skirts, more in case the clothes out. This kind of their height, is depending on the height of the skirt. Leather belt is a method of contrast, in the place where the transition at the top of the leather belt, usually with a fixed device, can be available as long as the photograph, don't like ribbons tied to each other. Compose the first fixture, generally there are two kinds of shape, a consummate hooked, known as the "hook", also known as the "hook"; Another ring, referred to as "ð « ” Ž", or "belt.

QQ截图20170329175531QQ截图20170329175505
Hook the emergence of a thing in China, the earliest can be traced back to the spring and autumn period. In Beijing, hebei, henan, shandong and shanxi and other places, in the spring and autumn period and the tomb has a hook objects unearthed. Literature is often mentioned in the name of the hook. Such as "pipe, small rectification" : "pipe lay my hook in the close shot me." Shi-ji JiTaiGong family ":" shot in the small white hook "and so on.
QQ截图20170329175614

Important properties of phenolic resin

High performance 
    Phenolic resin is the most important feature is the high temperature resistance, even at very high temperatures, can maintain the stability of the integrity of the structure and size. Is for this reason, the phenolic resin was used in some high temperature fields, such as refractory material, friction material, binder and casting industry. Refractory phenolic resin bond strength is an important application of the phenolic resin as binder. Phenolic resin is a kind of multi-functional, with a variety of organic and inorganic filler can compatible material. Design proper phenolic resin, wetting particularly fast. And after crosslinking can be abrasive, fire-proof material, friction material, and provide the required mechanical strength, bakelite heat-resistant properties and electric properties. Water soluble phenolic resin or alcohol soluble phenolic resin was used to impregnated paper, cloth, glass, asbestos and other similar material for them to provide mechanical strength, electrical, etc. Typical examples include electrical insulating and mechanical laminated manufacturing, clutch plate and automobile filter with a filter paper. 
QQ截图20170327220408
High carbon residue rate
   At the temperature about 1000 ℃ under inert gas conditions, phenolic resin will produce high carbon residue, which is beneficial to maintain the structure stability of phenolic resin. The properties of phenolic resin, and it can be used for refractory material in the field of an important reason.
QQ截图20170327220908
 Low smoke low toxic
   Compared with other resin systems, phenolic resin system has the advantages of low smoke low toxicity. In the case of burning, with the scientific formula to produce phenolic resin system, will be slow decomposition hydrogen, hydrocarbons, water vapour and carbon dioxide. decompositionproduced in the process of smoke less, toxicity is relatively low. These characteristics make phenolic resin is suitable for the area of public transport and safety requirements is very strict, such as mining, fencing, construction and so on.

 Chemical resistance
 After crosslinking phenolic resin can resist any chemical decomposition. Such as gasoline, oil, alcohol, ethylene glycol and various hydrocarbons.
QQ截图20170327220828
 Heat treatment 
  Heat treatment can raise the glass transition temperature of curing resin, to further improve the performance of the resin. Glass transition temperature molten state is similar to that of a crystalline solid, such as polypropylene. Phenolic resin with the glass transition temperature of initial in the initial stage of solidifying temperature. Heat treatment process can improve the liquidity of crosslinked resin further prompt response, at the same time also can remove residual volatile phenol, reduce shrinkage, enhance the dimensional stability, hardness, and high temperature strength. At the same time, the resin also tend to shrink and become fragile. Resin post-processing heating curve will depend on the initial curing conditions and the resin system.
QQ截图20170327220838

The future development of phenolic resin

Related to the development of phenolic resin and research work, mainly around the enhancement, flame retardant, low smoke, applicability and molding line to develop functional and intensification, scientists from all over the world of high value-added phenolic resin material as the object of research and development. Does not contain the formaldehyde and environmentally friendly new phenolic resin.


QQ截图20170331125227


New phenolic resin (xylok) for polymer compound, is made up of phenols and aromatic alkyl ether by condensation reaction, new phenolic resin with good mechanical properties, heat resistance, widely used in diamond products, grinding wheel manufacturing and other industries. New phenolic resin adhesive power is strong, good chemical stability, high heat resistance, the hardening shrink, dimension stability. Bond strength by more than 20% higher than that of phenolic resin, heat resistance increased by more than 100 ℃. New phenolic resin can be use for a long time under 250 ℃, products wet alkali resistance. New phenolic resin as bond diamond grinding wheel, using the method is: the new phenolic resin and phenolic resin according to 1:3 mixed use, not only improve the strength of phenolic resin, also improves the heat resistance and grinding ratio. Such as using the new phenolic resin alone, the life of the grinding wheel is 8 times, phenolic resin in the production process is about 30% higher than the intensity of phenolic resin, grinding effect is improved.


QQ截图20170331125106




It compared with other synthetic resin buttons, has the following features:
1. Good temperature resistance Ordinary resin buttons can only around 100 ℃ hot water to boil, urine aldehyde resin buttons can reach 120 ℃ or so. As for iron ironing temperature can be higher for a short period of time.
2. High hardness, good wear-resisting strokes Compared with resin buttons, hardness higher urine aldehyde resin buttons, it is also a kind of thermosetting crosslinking type plastic, so the wear resistance is very good, not easy to damage, so this kind of button can be used for washing often suits, shirts and other clothing.
3. Good resistance to organic solvents It is more than the unsaturated resin buttons has superior organic solution resistance, therefore, can from the erosion and does not destroy the dry cleaner.


QQ截图20170331124830

Metal buttons knowledge of plating

DSC_9594.JPG

2017年3月28日星期二

The ancient Chinese belt style

Ancient belt various, shape also is very complex. But on the whole, can be divided into two kinds, one kind with leather, called "Pan leather", or "Pan belts". Class with silk silks made, called "big band", or "silk sash. The two collectively known as the big belt belt. Before qin and han dynasties, the leather belt is mainly used for men, women are more commonly ribbon. "Said, leather department" : "man with Pan, woman with silk." Say is this meaning. However, man besides with a belt, also can tie all kinds of ribbon. Such as the book of songs, Cao Feng, cuckoo ":" shu people, its take the silk." Zheng xuan cloud: "the band's silk," big belt. Also big belt use silk, decorated with noise.

QQ截图20170328170313
According to the pre-qin literature, the ribbon shape is more complex, different color, decoration, from the right, next to the society, grade difference is significant. , such as the rites jade, algae is written: "the doctor belt, monarch hang down; and the practice with rate under a monarch; lay kam; disciple stripe band." Again: "the doctor took four inches.... right zone, zhu, final monarch." Zheng xuan: "more than the doctor to element, all four cubits wide; in practice, two inches wide." Even for the length of the tape after tying droop part size, there are strict rules: "gentlemen and long, three feet, Chinese authorities two feet five inches."
QQ截图20170328170711
Men's style
The so-called "gentlemen", means the end of the tape prolapse. "The analects of Confucius ˙ WeiLing male" reporter: "zi zhang ZhuShen book." Song Xing  note: "to the waist, hang down the rest of the thought, of gentlemen." Because accent is belt hang at the end of the part, and so can be brought to remember. Of course, this is the practice of emergency. In the general case, the official note, is to use a ShouBan, "sank", need not when will it in the waist, then simply plug the vertical landed gentry wat eunuch called Jin landed gentry. Jin is inserted. ":" the Book of Jin, and take its fine Jin is to the belt, the so-called Jin landed gentry gentleman, Jin wat and vertical landed gentry also." Say is this kind of situation. Later also extended the squire, gentleman, such as noun, specifically to those who have certain identity and status, saying they have the qualification for the Jin landed gentry.
QQ截图20170328171202
Women's style
As for women, although not need Jin wat, but after the belt, there is also a part of the lop, the title of this sagging part, on the way and the man with a little different. Ming Yang shen Dan lead continued to record down: "old woman with long, is called lead noms. Vertical is called JIAN well. Knot and solvable yue new; the knot and yue association." What call "solution", what is "no solution"? With today's words to explain, refers to the slipknot and fast knot, respectively. All looping slipknot, the ancient called "new", while the fast knot fastening referred to as the "association". "Say, department" : "association, junction can also." And "button, system. Also the knot and solvable." It is this meaning.
QQ截图20170328171151

The history of ancient Chinese belt

Early Chinese garment without buttons, in just a few small band around the skirt, only to tie knot, the title of this small band called "short". "Say, department" : "short, clothing is also." Annotation to note: "the joint skirt belt. Also present with brass knob, not the ancient also." Say is this kind of situation. In order not to make clothes out, people and a big band on the waist, the big belt belt and it and today people are used to is a bundle of the lace they name it, but the effect is not the same.
QQ截图20170327222839
Because the belt has the special function, so the ancients attaches great importance to it, no matter wear robes, casual clothes, waist beam on the area. Over time, the belt has become indispensable a accessories of clothing, especially in the ceremony to see, but it is missing. History of the south, liu Jin biography "(Jin) party rail integrity,... the next call brother Huan night? Jin don't answer, side of my bed the clothes stand, then we should. Huan blame it for a long time, Jin yue:" to the band unfinished, so the set operation. "Meet even night between brothers say a few words, must be the whole garment band, otherwise, they think is polite. Ancient people's emphasis on etiquette. Manner.
QQ截图20170327222932
 According to ouyang xiu" returned record "records, the song dynasty emperor taizong called TaoGu. Night valley to see the emperor, but refused to enter. Emperor taizong immediately realized that this is because they do not have because of the band, so the belt around to get robe, hurriedly beam. TaoGu see emperor bundle on the belt, this just in. At that time, the emperor summoned the courtiers, and don't wear a belt is also a discourteous behaviour, so can't with his manner.
QQ截图20170327222914

The synthesis principle of phenolic resin

Phenolic resin is also called the bakelite, also called bakelite powder. Originally colorless or brown transparent material, the market often add colorant and a red, yellow, black, green, brown, blue wait for color, particles, powder.
QQ截图20170327213620
 Weak acid and weak base resistance, meet acid decomposition, in strong alkali corrosion. Insoluble in water, but soluble in organic solvents such as acetone, alcohol. Phenol and formaldehyde polycondensation. It includes: linear phenolic resin, thermosetting phenolic resin and oil soluble phenolic resin. Mainly for the production of molding compound, plastic laminate; Manufacturing varnish or insulation, corrosion resistant coating; Manufacturing daily necessities, ornaments; Making sound insulation, heat insulation material and so on.
QQ截图20170327213531
 Common plastic handle high voltage electrical outlet, furniture and so on of epoxy-modified phenolic phenolic resin, PF, phenolic resin. As the yellow, transparent, amorphous block material, due to containing free molecules are reddish, specific gravity 1.25 ~ 1.30, soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water, the water, weak acid and weak base solution stability.
8
 By phenol and formaldehyde in catalyst under the condition of polycondensation, via neutralization, water washing and made of resin. For selecting the different catalysts, can be divided into two categories, thermosetting and thermoplastic. Phenolic resin has good acidproof performance, mechanical properties, heat resistance, is widely applied in anti-corrosion engineering, adhesive and flame retardant materials, grinding wheel manufacturing and other industries. Phenol - formaldehyde resin was the first industrialized synthetic resin.
00

The basic properties of the electric jade buttons

Urea buttons (commonly known as high interest/electric jade buckle), the urine aldehyde resin preparation.
An overview of the basic properties of phenolic resin is also called the bakelite, also called bakelite. 
QQ截图20170327211500
Originally colorless or brown transparent material, the market often add colorant and a red, yellow, black, green, brown, blue wait for color, particles, powder. Weak acid and weak base resistance, meet acid decomposition, in strong alkali corrosion. Insoluble in water, but soluble in organic solvents such as acetone, alcohol. Phenol and formaldehyde polycondensation.
QQ截图20170327211601
 Classification and USES It includes: linear phenolic resin, thermosetting phenolic resin and oil soluble phenolic resin. Mainly for the production of molding compound, plastic laminate; Manufacturing varnish or insulation, corrosion resistant coating; Manufacturing daily necessities, ornaments; Making sound insulation, heat insulation material and so on. Common plastic handle high voltage electrical outlet, furniture and so on phenolic resin appearance of phenolic resin, PF for short.
QQ截图20170327211622
 The phenolic resin for yellow, transparent, amorphous block material, due to containing free molecules are reddish, specific gravity 1.25 ~ 1.30, soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water, the water, weak acid and weak base solution stability. By phenol and formaldehyde in catalyst under the condition of polycondensation, via neutralization, water washing and made of resin. For selecting the different catalysts, can be divided into two categories, thermosetting and thermoplastic. Phenolic resin has good acidproof performance, mechanical properties, heat resistance, is widely applied in anti-corrosion engineering, adhesive and flame retardant materials, grinding wheel manufacturing and other industries.
QQ截图20170327211532

H buckle FAQ editor

1, to jeans, with a little force can pull, nail and the button is not tight
If it is glue heart h clasp, this glue heart has relationship with the h buckle, if use almost plastic glue heart, will not call the nail under pressure, will be pushed out. So we will drop down to the hard pull. And with good plastic - new material to do, will not appear this kind of circumstance. At the same time also has relations with the shape of the nail, have sharp nails, screw nails, generally USES the screw nails.
QQ截图20170326230550
2, nails on buttons, in front of the h buckle directly play to wear
Can simple analysis can come out, is h button panel do too thin. Sustain the momentum of the nail dozen come over, suddenly can beat button surface wear off. This is a less, like alloy, copper, iron h buckle, do ordinary is also very rare, unless deliberately hitting bottom go to, the surface wear off.
QQ截图20170326230242
3, h buckle order on the jeans on, the surface color
Actually this question is simple, the surface of the h buckle rub off, it generally has relationship with electroplating, spray paint, plating is not good, no oil seal products, color generally stay long, in the air after oxidation, the color will become weak, also in the process of friction will drop down. And under the condition of spray paint, lacquer, it has to do with product spray paint composition, does not generally good paint, unless it is the kind of paint is very poor.
QQ截图20170326230925
4, h buckle is rough
Button appear this kind of problem, it has relations with the plant surface treatment process, polishing does not reach the designated position, product mould open well. This done, can avoid completely.
And h buckle according to different customer requirements, like drops of glue, paint, plating, etc., the problems and according to specific situation
QQ截图20170326230952

Shank button

Shank button H buckle is mainly used in cowboy kind of thick fabric, usually referred to as "cowboy buckle" besides h buckle also is match in some more thick fabric or style is straightforward, such as a leather coat, down jacket, boots, handbags, etc.
QQ截图20170326225236
 H buckle by the button (A) above and below the nails (B) two of the two parts together by way of rapping. After combination of modelling is just like a Chinese "work" word, so the name "h buckle" .
QQ截图20170326224810
h buckle can be divided into: hollow h buckle, moving head, feet h h buckle buckle, double color h buckle, belt borer word buckle, etc
QQ截图20170326224820
Shank button button surface size factories specific range, but is one of the more common: 16 l (10 MM), 20 l 18 l (11.5 MM), (12.5 MM), 24 l (15 MM), 27 (17 MM), 32 l l (20 MM). They can do some alloy on the surface of the knob shank button larger, there are 48 l (30 mm), but the bronze or iron, and shank button generally under 40 l (25 mm). Note: 1 l = 0.625 M M.
QQ截图20170326224719

2017年3月21日星期二

Five claws deduction related

QQ截图20170321225144

Horn button coat fun business occasions

We can foresee that horn button coat and trend compared to last year, there will be more than once. A classic British style button coat, now finally get rid of the "general Montgomerie" and "Paddington Bear" label, and again produced a "fashion" two words.



图片1
Peter Pam in the coat

The British Department of defense "clearance" treatment

The British "Guardian > Fashion Editor Jess Cartner-Morley has put the horn button coat called" coat of Peter Pam ", because it has been kept until today, the development and change of neglect, seems to have been little child. But perhaps it is because of this, in the fashion industry strutting step back to the past, Retro just unfolding at present, placket coat has become a trend, from the Cambridge students, independent music, has been wearing to the T model of the body, into the fashion magazine pages blockbusters.

图片2

Ox horn coat, English name "Duffle coat"

It's easy to buckle up horn students coat and childish, but in fact, the flavor of the leisure clothing and many men in traditional costumes, and uniform off the dry line. English horn button coat, called "duffle coat", meaning "tweed", named for the Belgian town of Duffel the earliest production of this special Tweed Fabric Design, at the end of the eighteenth Century British tailors John Patricia the fabric and button coat together into the UK, misspelled as "Duffle". During the first World War, the British Navy introduced the horn button as uniform outer coat The coat, because it is warm, and big horn buttons for seaman wearing thick gloves is also very easy solution. In 50s, after the end of the war, the British Defense Ministry of the backlog of placket coat sold to the public, placket coat really and are associated.

Classic British horn button coat to keep the details

Experienced people to wear uniforms change, although the placket coat is no longer so hypertrophy, is no longer a single camel, but the first batch of the design features of clothing placket coat lay still retain good authentic classic British horn button coat, have the following characteristics:


图片3
A little wood, a little rope

Real Duffle Tweed Fabric

Coarse or inside cloth for Scotland Plaid

Cap and neck strap

With a cord or leather rope fixed four pieces of wood or horn buttons

Both sides have practical pocket

Knee length

"A little wood, a little rope"

Horn button placket coat is undoubtedly most special details. Although the Chinese name of "horn" two words, "ivory" nickname in the English speaking countries, in fact, just because of the unique shape of the name. Horn button is one of the oldest buckle, on both sides of the closed loop by long rod or horn shaped buckle fixed. It has a more ancient Dutch Name: houtje touwtje, meaning "a little bit of wood and rope", is the concrete description of the horn button, also let a lot of people think that the first button from Holland. Now the horn button in every kind of clothing, shoes and bags can be seen on the material the horn, horn, Plastic, wood and more

图片4

General Bernard Montgomery, British Field Marshal

The coat of the coat

When it comes to the well known button coat endorsement characters, you have to mention the famous British Field Marshal Bernard and general Montgomerie. In order to make it easier to identify his troops, he has repeatedly wearing horn button coat. Montgomerie's nickname "Monty", because of his influence, a lot of people will be called the "horn button coat Monty coat."

Today that horn button coat, people first thought might be "Paddington Bear". Paddington Bear is a British writer Mike Bond's fairy tale characters, has played an important role in children's literature. The Paddington Bear most love button coat, although the figure decided it can only have two pieces of Coat Button, but at least in Britain, it is fully deserve the horn button coat image.


图片5
Wearing a coat of the upper half of the button will be more visually heavy

TIPS

Horn button coat loose, wear the best attention to body collocation layering, shirt and sweater, cardigan or jacket is wearing a coat button in a good choice, different color and fabric stack level will be very exciting, if only a shirt or T-shirt is somewhat mediocre.

In addition, wearing a button coat body will visually more thick, so try to choose a lower body and tight pants, such as blue jeans or pants will make the whole wardrobe Chino, seems more coherent and clear, not too casual and loose trousers.

Four ways to wear a coat

图片6

A simple one, immediately from the business people jump out, so a red duffel coat does not need too much modification has been very eye-catching, and Tweed Fabric has been the preferred business man. Of course, if you are afraid of bright low-key, black and dark blue coat will not reduce your taste. Take the coat business suits, has always been the routine work of men on business attire.

图片7

Oxford shirts, flannel trousers, cashmere cardigan, suede shoes, not the failure of the business. Tired of winter collocation suits and ties want some changes, but still can not abandon the orthodox style business men can be assured that wearing shirts and cardigan. Change the color pattern and collocation is enough to make you look different every night.


图片8
A white T a thick dark cardigan, the most suitable for some informal occasions or a business trip, or you don't want to look like the same with other business people, can choose this method. But the wear black shoes with white socks, it is a tribute to Michael?


图片9
It can change men's collocation and combination is not, men's business poor limitations have become bigger. And dress for the more demanding business men, in order to highlight their advanced taste, clothing fabric, color, texture, style collocation is focus. In order to emphasize the business, comfort and leisure, more choice of wool, cashmere, wool fabric is as the main winter leather selection can also be the only proper course to take, for your business as a plus.